I got up at four, after having slept at midnight trying to finish work so I’d have today off. At five we were collected by a small van filled with a few equally drowsy people and driven about 90 minutes to be dropped off at the start of the Tongariro crossing day hike. Leaving in a hurry I hadn’t brought my backpack so hoped to rent one. They’d run out so instead I left my bag in the van and stuffed a few necessities into the Gentleman Friend’s backpack.
The walk entered the hills through low scrub-like vegetation. On one side was Ngaurohoe, a small but imposing mountain with red streaks, a cap of snow and smoke curling from the peak. On the other side were a series of hills. It was pleasant but I did wonder if it was worth waking up early after two nights with seven hours of sleep between them. We got to Soda Stream, a short side trip, which further concerned me as it was a pleasant little waterfall. Then the path turned and the real hike began. Steeply uphill over lava flows, over a path which was sturdily constructed, with steps at the steepest bits, but hot in the sun and cold in the shade. I of course, lagged badly here but eventually we got to the top, to a wide plateau and then to a crater, bowl-shaped with the mountain rising behind it. Then up again, to a tall cold windswept ridge. Behind was the wide, brown and green landscape we had come from, on the other side was desolation, ash and cold lava, grey and black and red. One could see now why this was the side of Mordor. The path continued along the ridge to the highest point and then I realised that we were actually walking around the rim of a crater. Across, where the path continued, was a nearly perfect circle of a lake, blue in the morning sun, and on one side was another circle, a bowl of snow cupped in the hills. Further down the ridge there came a flash of blue and green, three smaller lakes stained vivid, impossible colours by the chemicals and surrounded by steaming vents.
The path down to them was very difficult, it was scree, and one could feel the heat of the earth as one’s feet sank in. I’m nervous going downhill at the best of times, but I made it down eventually at a snail’s pace with only a few slow motion tumbles. One problem I have is that with every step I visualise too clearly what might happen: the loose rock under foot, the weight distribution all wrong, losing balance, tipping forward, smashing my glasses.
Anyway I made it down and we walked around the rims of the coloured lake. One of them, the most vivid lapis lazuli one, was surrounded by red and green veins, like an eye, and fringed with intensely green vegetation. I wonder if the grasses that grow in such chemical cocktails are different, somehow, or if it was the contrasting colours that made them seem to glow as thet did.
We walked on to the bigger blue lake, past a huge black field and then left the lakes. The next part of the walk was quite easy, along the sides of valleys, with views of hills steaming smoke. Then we crossed over a shoulder to zig-zag down a huge alpine hillside covered in tiny-leaved bushes and small flowers, with exposed rocks in all colours. Green, blue, pale pink, mauve, intense reds and yellows. The downhill was steep and I had rightly feared it – my feet did not enjoy it, and I worried about my toes (they were fine). Then through a forest, green and full of ferns and tree ferns. By this time my feet were hurting so I didn’t make the full side trip to the base of a little waterfall (only looking at it from the top), and when we came to signs warning about moving swiftly for fear of lahars, I could hardly quicken my pace.
At last we arrived at the parking lot at just after 3. The bus would leave at 4 so we waited and the Gentleman Friend stretched while I stretched as much as my feet allowed. Then we returned to Taupo. After a delightful shower and an examination of my toes, we decided to go for a dip in the local hot springs. It took a while to get there as they are inside a narrow gash of a valley with the entrance on the other side, long and curved and designed for cars. The place itself was a typical holiday park, with pools and waterslides and families, all concrete and tile with occasional bursts of manicured greenery. Given the setting in the valley it seemed a waste. Anyway, the hot pool was very hot indeed, 40 degrees, and I had a few dips, thinking that the sulphur would surely sooth my feet and my eczema. Which it did – this morning both are looking and feeling much, much better. Then a dash over to the fish and chip shop for dinner and a return to watch the end of the sunset as we ate. And then, at last, to bed for my first full night’s sleep in a while.